Maison Chanzy: Tasting, Laying Down, 2014 Burgundy

Mar 18, 2016 | Anglais, Rapport de presse |

Another consistently impressive range of wines from Jean-Baptiste Jessiaume, a talented young winemaker who takes legitimate pride in his work. There is no Clos de Bèze or Ruchottes in the range yet, but the other Gevrey Grands Crus could serve as a masterclass in the top terroirs of the village, and the Clos de la Roche, Clos Vougeot, and Echézeaux are at the same high level in terms of both quality and typicity. The hors classe Morey-St-Denis is a delicious reminder that it is not only the grands crus of this village that shine, and further proof of Jean Baptiste’s sureness of touch.

White

Bouzeron Clos de la Fortune
NB Palest gold. Still discreet on the nose, but pure with a light note of quince. Beautifully silken texture, but the acidity is electrifying, the finish scintillating. Appetizing, exciting Aligote. 89

Puligny-Montrachet Les Reuchaux
NB Light gold. Balanced and clean on the nose, still lightly spicy from the wood but this is integrating well. Dense and silky, with finely spun acidity and excellent concentration, harmony, and precision for its level. Exciting village Puligny. 88+

Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru La Garenne
NB I Lemon-gold. A fine, pure, floral and mineral scent. Elegant. filigree texture, the acidity lending pinpoint precision, but there is also concentration and excellent length. 90

Santenay Premier Cru Gravieres
NB Jean-Baptiste Jessiaume, whose family domaine was in Santenay, knows this top premier cru well and has produced a brilliant expression of it here. Light gold. A complex, intriguing, earthy-cum-spicy scent. Dense, rich, and sumptuous on the palate. with real scale and scope, but beautifully balanced by finely integrated. perfectly pitched acidity and a scintillating finish. 90

Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
NB Lemon-gold. Restrained and subtle. with a fine floral and mineral scent. Free-flowing harmony, purity, and understated intensity on the mid-palate, the grand cru credentials establishing themselves on the explosive finish. 92

Red

Morey-St-Denis Les Herbuottes
NB An intense mid-cherry ruby. Ripe, soft. warm, ripe red fruit on the nose, with alluring roseate lift. Elegant, finely silky texture, bright well-integrated acidity, but a layered richness and supportive structure, too. Excellent harmony and length, and an outstanding village wine. as last year. 89

Nuits-St-Georges Premier Cru Les St-Georges
NB Medium-deep cherry ruby. Properly restrained on the nose, but still a sense of intense ripe red and black fruit, a mineral charge and light spice. Very noble, refined tannins, and excellent harmony, intensity, and length. A wine that strengthens the case for this aspiring grand cru. 90

Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru Combe Aux Moines
NB Clear, intense mid-ruby. Darkly fruited. ripe and spicy, but very good clarity and definition, too: a very stylish nose. Similarly on the palate, there ls excellent brightness but nothing at all harsh or shrill: real reach, in terms of both depth and length, and seductive suavity of texture, too. 90

Chambertin Grand Cru
NB Medium-deep ruby, authentic dullish luster. Oceanic depth on the nose: only the calm dark surface shows now. but you know that underneath there is a long way down. Effortlessly expansive on the palate, but retaining its surface tension even at its fullest extent. Abundant tannins, but so finely drawn that the wine still seems to prance all the way through the long and seamless finish. Perhaps a dauphin Chambertin rather than a roi Chambertin, in its youthful charm and elegance, but regal all the same. For those of more republican tendencies, Napoleonic catnip. 95

Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru
NB Brilliant pale to medium ruby, surprisingly light but lovely. Good clarity and intensity of both black and red fruit on the nose. A gentle entry, no lack of depth or intensity on its own scale, but balance, elegance, and finesse are the very welcome hallmarks. Chapels can be as perfectly formed as cathedrals, and this one is. 91

Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru
NB Deeper medium ruby. Beguiling fruit purity to the scent, ringingly clear but ripe, with light spice. Equally matched elegance and richness, very well extracted, perfectly ripe tannins. and even greater harmony and succulence than the Chapelle. 92

Griotte-Chambertin Grand Cru
NB An intense medium ruby. Another lovely scent. with as much clarity but greater nascent complexity than the Chapelle or Charmes: a fine weave of clean earth, kirsch (autosuggestion or not), and light spice. So many layers to the silk that it seems closer to velvet, even in its youth; balanced, composed, effortlessly flowing and completely captivating. 93

Latriciéres-Chambertin Grand Cru
NB Intense, limpid, luminous medium ruby. Arresting nose, already complex, darkly fruited, mineral, and spicy; the detail is so fine that at this close distance it is not yet possible to discern the overall pattern, but it promises to be perfectly symmetrical and swirling. An elegant entry and supreme refinement of texture, even greater harmony, intensity, lacy intricacy, and vibrancy of flavor than its Gevrey-Chambertin grand cru neighbors, gliding on and on. A brilliant rendition of this great site. 94

Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru
NB Bright. gleaming medium ruby. Clean and ripe, but a darker, more brooding and imposing nose. and the faint (tempting) whiff of smoked meat. A little less translucent than the Latriciéres, with more rubbery grip, but still a superb quality of tannin, still succulent on top, with a bright, flourishing finish of impressive length. Despite the greater muscle, there is nothing at all musclebound about this, and it should be magnificent at full maturity. 93

Maison Chanzy: World of Fine Wine, Mar2016, page1
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